The quenelles

Quenelles, and particularly pike quenelles with Nantua sauce, are another unmissable mainstay of Lyonnais cuisine, symbolizing the wealth and expertise of the "mères lyonnaises".

History and Origin

The history of the quenelle is ancient, with traces of similar preparations (meat or fish dumplings) dating back to Roman antiquity. The term "quenelle" itself is said to come from the German "Knödel" (dumpling).

However, the Lyon quenelle as we know it today has a more specific history:

• The Pike and the Saône: In the 19th century, the waters of the Saône, which flows through Lyon, were teeming with pike. Fishermen and cooks were looking for ways to use this abundant fish.
• The invention by a pastry chef: Legend attributes the invention of the Lyon quenelle to pastry chef Charles Morateur around 1830. The idea was to create a pastry based on pike meat and choux pastry, for a light, fluffy texture. Originally, the recipe used beef or veal kidney fat, before butter replaced it for a more refined, less fatty version.
• The recipe's evolution:Later, Joseph Moyne is said to have refined the recipe, replacing the fat with butter and giving the quenelle its current, spoon-molded shape.
• La Sauce Nantua: The emblematic combination with Nantua sauce was born from the presence of crayfish in Lake Nantua, near Lyon. Local cooks developed a rich, fragrant sauce based on crayfish butter, white wine and cream, which married perfectly with the pike quenelle.

The quenelle has become a staple dish in Lyon's "bouchons" and the tables of top chefs, from Mère Brazier to Paul Bocuse.

Composition and Particularities

Lyon's quenelle is a kind of salty "soufflé", characterized by its airy texture and delicate taste. Its main ingredients are:

• Panade:This is the base of the quenelle, a dough made with flour (or semolina), butter, milk or water, and eggs.
• Flesh: Traditionally, finely blended brochet flesh is used. We also find poultry, veal or even plain quenelles (mainly based on breadcrumbs).
• The shaping:The dough is then molded by hand or with a spoon, to give it its characteristic cylindrical shape, often with slightly pointed ends.
• Cooking:Quenelles are usually potted in simmering stock (they double in volume as they swell) before being baked au gratin with a sauce.

The ideal texture of a good quenelle is both light and melting, with a puffy appearance after cooking.

Sauces and accompaniments

While the quenelle is often associated with sauce Nantua (creamy crayfish sauce), it can be served with other sauces and accompaniments:

• Sauce Nantua:The classic and most famous pairing. It's rich, based on crayfish carcasses, butter, cream, white wine, and sometimes a dash of cognac.
• Sauce Béchamel or Mornay: Simpler sauces, often used for plain quenelles. Mornay incorporates grated cheese.
• Tomato sauce:A lighter, tangier option.
• Morilles sauce:A more luxurious version, particularly appreciated for poultry quenelles.
• Gratin:Quenelles are very often gratinated in the oven with their sauce, giving them a beautiful golden crust and a puffy interior.